Now that you have your pond designed, here are some tips for installing it. If you haven’t read the first part on design, read this first.

This is the most difficult part for most; while the designing, adding the plants (and fish if desired) and maintaining a lovely water garden can be a great deal of fun.
Just remind yourself of all the enjoyment your pond will soon bring. There isn’t room here to fully detail each step, but this will give you a good idea of the process involved and help you decide if this will be a do-it-yourself project, if you want hire a neighborhood youth to help with things like the digging. If you decide to contract with a landscaper or backhoe driver parts one and two of this article will give you an idea of what needs to be done.

You can install a backyard pond anytime of the year, as long as the ground is not frozen or soggy. When using a rigid, pre-formed liner, dig a hole to the correct depth and slightly wider. Then simply drop in the liner, ensuring that it is level
(use a leveler) and sitting securely in the ground. Backfill around the sides, and your ready to add the water. This can usually be done in a day.

If you are using PVC, plan for at least a couple days. These are the basic steps:

1. Dig the hole, using the rope you laid out on the ground in the designing phase as a guide. Remember to allow for the varying depths mentioned in the designing phase. Tiers may also be added for potted aquatic plants, but they should be wide and deep enough for the potted plants and for some rocks to hold them and the soil in place (these can also protect marginal plants from koi). While you are digging, keep the topsoil for landscaping around your pond.

2. To prevent leaks in the liner, remove all rocks from the excavated area, and place a one-inch layer of damp sand on the bottom (some use old carpet or liner scraps instead).

3. Spread the liner over the hole, allowing it to sag gently and holding it in place with a few rocks around the edge.

4. Begin filling your pond! The water’s weight will help smooth the liner. Remove rocks, so that the liner can conform to the edges of the hole. Gently smooth out wrinkles and make folds where necessary as it fills. It may help to get inside the pond (barefoot).

5. As the water rises, place rocks around the edge to secure the liner so that the weight of the water doesn’t pull the sides down. Once filled, complete the edging.

6. Squirt down the edging and liner fully. If the water in the pond muddies, drain the pond (better now than later). A shop vacuum will help get the last of it out.

7. Refill the pond.

8. If you’re using a pump and filter, install these now, along with the fountain. Or if you’re adding a waterfall, an external pond filter or waterfall tank can be positioned to create the first waterfall. Position this to spill directly into the pond. Or stack stone from the pond shelf up against the pond filter to create a waterfall.

9. If your pond is to hold more than 100 gallons, create a dedicated overflow by lowering the liner and edging at the end of the pond from which you wish water to flow during heavy rains and flooding.

10. Landscape around the pond for natural beauty and to provide birds and frogs with land habitat.

11. Allow the pond to sit for a few days before adding fish and plants to allow chlorine to evaporate or use a dechlorinator. If your water has chloramine (as some city water does), use dechlorinator that also neutralizes ammonia.

12. Now, you’re ready to add the plants and fish! Add a packaged, beneficial bacteria to seed the pond filter and pond. You may want to add the plants asap so that they can start protecting against algae. Stay tuned for part three, where you’ll learn about planting your water garden.

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